Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Reel rack build

Building a Reel Rack.
I'm getting a small collection of reels now and my current location in my shop is not working anymore plus I have to pick them out of the shelves and walk them to the machine most times . 
The rack will have casters and hold 2 sets of verticutters ,spare 3150 reels and 2 sets of GK IV reels . 


Started of with some scribbling a few days before . First I figure out how to build it and refer to ones I've seen on tech  sites. Try to build it on paper to avoid mistakes . Break down all the parts and right down the sizes and amounts of each . There are some things I'll figure out as I go . 


 Using a metal cutting chop saw makes quick work on breaking down the lengths of tubing .  


I'm going to be using 1/8th wall 1.5 " square tube stock . For the laterals that the reels will sit on I'm using 1/8th. wall 2"x 1".


Squaring up the base . It's around 32"x 35"


Welded the first shelf on the bottom of 4 uprights . Then held them in place about 16" apart and tack the 2 tops then tacked the 4 bottoms  . The up rights where not cut on angle to butt up . I'll be using a pieces of square stock to weld up between them . Just quicker for me to build it this way . In the back round you can see my current set up . A little tricky to get it tacked up by yourself . 


Next using clamps to hold reel shelves 90 degrees to the uprights . I'm using a level on it's side to get the pieces to match flat .I spaced them every 12 ". so there will be 11" between them . My tallest reel is around 9 " for the hook . 


After welding the top put a reel on it and make adjustments by tapping up on the shelf so they are sitting on the front and rear rollers . Finish welding the underside and sides . 



Well I'm almost done one side and hope to finish it tomorrow . Caster wheels will go on last . When I get back from vacation I'll clean it up check the welds and prime / paint . 

I'll post more picture later . After it's all said and done it's going to hold one set of reels on bottom shelf and 4 sets of 3 on rack . 
Fully loaded its going to run close to 900 lbs. rolling on casters to where it's need in the shop.
Had time today to finish it and rearrange the shop a bit before vacation . Good time for me to take off . Guys should be back soon .most of the snow is gone and grass is slow to come back to life . Hard to believe that we were mowing greens March 22 last year . 


Finished all the shelves for reels .Now attaching the caster wheels . There was a little concern about the weight but after cleaning the slag chips and debris on the floor it rolled around pretty well fully loaded . 


Wheels are on . 


A little test fitting

  



checked the welds and added a few more supports . Doubled up the caster area to pick up the whole plate . 


Removed all the stuff I had in this corner and rearranged elsewhere in the shop . Looks pretty good and enough room for the new set of greens reels coming soon .  Holds 15 reels .

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

GK IV retro fitting a reel


We had an offer to sell an engine and hydraulic pumps off an old GK IV .
Received $1000.00 for them . Now I'm left parting out the rest of the machine . Check out the parts and prices in the used equipment section . We had an older  (20 +years ) set of rebuilt reels that won't fit on the newer 2000 GK IV. 
So today spent reworking the old set to fit . My problem was the set is to wide  for the pull frame .


I have to remove the reel frame mounting bolt back .


To fit the frame it has to look this way . Spacing between bolt mounts is 25.25" If the problem was to big a reel frame Jacobsen sell adapter bushings to fit .


Dremmel tool works perfect to zip them off.


Pretty tight area and have to knock the rest off and clean up with the dremmel tool . 


Now you can drill it out . the rod is solid and the hole fairly deep . You may have to use a smaller drill bit first then step up to the right size for a 3/8 course thread bolt . ( 5/16th ) You can see the welded on hook in this picture .


Drill it far enough so the tap will not bottom out . 


Tap the threads next . Slow and easy . You will have to work it in and out and clean off the tap many times .


Next on the old style reel the hook is welded on . With this set of pull frames I have to remove the hook to get them on . Check the angle with an angle finder first.Next I'm making up new mounting brackets .


1 " pin made a good template .


Fitting bracket


Clamp in place at the pre determined angle .


Weld in place .


Could order new hooks but went this route . Drilled all the holes needed before cutting out the shapes with a cut off wheel . 



I left about an 1/8th - gap to get a good weld .



Now I have 2 sets of sacrificial reels to use after top dressing .

Now I have 6 sets of reels not on machines sitting in the shop . Time to build a rolling reel rack . 

Thursday, March 13, 2014

Invisible grease nipple on older Toro 1250 sprayer

Our older sprayer has a grease nipple that cannot be greased with out having to remove relay/fuse panel and engine shield on the front of the engine . Good thing it doesn't need to be greased often

Drill a hole in the shield upper right . The newer sprayer has an access hole here now . Don't leave the shield off it aids in keeping the engine cool .


 The grease nipple on the end of steering ram .( invisible grease nipple )


Re installed the shield .


And check to see if it can be greased next time with out having to tear everything off.  . Install the fuse/relay panel back on for the last time . 

Loader repairs

I noticed the other day that my repair wasn't working out as well as planned .Also the bucket had a few holes worn in and the front edge was worn so bad that the sides left lines when back dragging..

Only 4 pins to pull to remove from the loader . My ceiling hoist made quick work to get it on the roll top for patch work on the bottom . 


Had to clamp a piece of thick walled tube square stock to help straighten out the front edge so a new one could be welded in .


Did a bunch of welds on the bottom to help strengthen it up a bit . 



Almost done .


Took a while to straighten the top section . It had been used to pull with  .Not a good idea . 


There was a piece of solid pipe to help strengthen the top and made a couple of hook up areas so it will prevent damage to the bucket in the future . 


Fresh coat of paint.






Not perfect but should last a few more years . 



This area last year was completely missing . I had stacked a couple of 1/4 steel plate that held for a while till it started to oval the hole . 


My junk pile had a few pieces of 1 " thick stock and drilled a hole opening to fit the pin . Lined the new piece up and marked out the plate and cut it out with a cut off wheel . On level flooring in shop I was able to put the bucket kick stand down and lowered the bucket . Made welding in the new collar in the right location easier . 


I'm not a welder but do OK with what I know . Welding in thick pieces of steel involves grinding back a good V groove so you can get good penetration then just keep stacking welds till its all filled in . 


Haven't had any thing pull apart so I must be doing OK . 



All done good for a few more years maybe more . 

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Toro 1250 sprayer Park Brake Buzzer install

This problem I have heard talk about on a few forum sites . There are a few of these Toro style machines that are confusing to get a park brake buzzer installed on them . Of course guys will drive off leaving them on and wearing out brakes . Yes you could adjust the brake so it will stall the machine but you wouldn't be able to pull the handle up and stretch the cable prematurely.  I have occasionally done the same thing , so I can't just blame the staff or training for it . Waiting for parts for the sprayer so I decided to tackle this issue . I did lay out parts switches and connections hooked up to a battery for a test run of what I wanted to do . 


 Put a Club Car micro switch here to activate the alarm when the handle is pulled up or left on .


Going to use a truck reverse buzzer  later . Just trying out different locations. I'll install one under the seat on the right middle by the frame.

Ok now comes the thinking part . What switch I was going to tie into ? The best option was to use the neutral interlock switch which is activated by pressing the brake pedal . My problem now is that it is only a 2 amp circuit and I'm going to need a bigger circuit to run for the buzzer etc.
The best way to get more amps was to use a relay . I'm using the one below .Just a common 4 pin one . #30 is direct battery power fused with a 10 amp fuse . Should be enough for what I need and won't burn out the CC micro switch since they have a 10 amp circuit . #85 and #86 cut or splice into the wires going to the neutral interlock switch . I cut mine closer to the relay panel before the harness connection . It shouldn't matter which one they go on . If the relay has a diode or there is a diode in the circuit then reverse them . #87 takes the 10 amp power to the micro switch . What happens is the magnetic coil between 85 and 86 gets energized when the foot brake switch gets activated . That triggers the points to close connecting battery power up 87. That way you won't blow the 2 amp fuse .




Running wire to # 30 on relay . 


Run a wire from micro switch to #87 of relay . Run another wire to buzzer and to ground  from buzzer . If it works in reverse then switch wires on micro switch.


Cut or splice in wires to 85 and 86 from neutral solenoid switch. I chose to cut and put them together on one end of butt connector . Do one line at a time so they don't get mixed up . 


Mount relay with the rest of them .


Wires hooked to micro switch.


A few more shots of wire connections 


Use heat shrink covers on connections . The butt connectors came with heat shrink built in . 


Picture of neutral lock solenoid . 


Great tool plug the clips on positive and negative battery terminals .


Then you can probe around and see what is negative and positive . green is negative. 


Red positive. Some wires will show green till a switch is activated then turns red  . 


Great for checking grounds .


Fantastic crimping tool . Perfect crimp every time . 


Cleaning up wiring cutting them to size and split wire loom them to give it  a factory install look . 


A few more pics below .



\Notice the battery location . Much better here .


After zip tying everything up I rechecked to see if it was working and to my surprise it did not . Found a broken ground wire and repaired it . 

Waiting for my truck type reverse buzzer to arrive . 

It's here.




 Wow now that is loud.