This process is pretty much the same for most wheel bearings .
There are special tools to remove the dust covers but this works fine . Work your way around till its off ,
Removing the cotter pin I find a pair of side cutters works best . I'm using the hub for leverage . No need to try to straighten it out ..it will pull through . Then throw it away . Cotter pins are to be replaced new when removed .
Pull the hub off the spindle
If you see a rusty race than the bearing and race should both be replaced . Keep track which bearing goes with which race if they are fine . Mismatched parts will wear a little faster . Always replace the bearing and race together . Don't take the EASY route and throw a bearing in an call it a day .
The hub felt fine before removal and wheel spun very well ... to well . It may have not lasted the season if I hadn't pulled it apart .The seal was bad letting water and debris in flushing out the grease .
Races are easily tapped out with a punch and hammer tap lightly and work 180 degrees direction to tap them out
Your pressing a steel race into an aluminium hub so don't over do it . Light pressure and check to see if it is seated properly
Loading up the bearing with grease . A few pumps of grease on the palm of your hand works best for me .
Work grease in from this side of the bearing . Scrape and press the grease into the bearing and work your way around it .
It should look like this when your done .
Do the inside one first . Be sure to install a new seal .
Press it in till level with hub .
Rub some grease on seal lip.
Clean up the spindle and the area where the seal sits with a fine emery cloth and grease it . Most likely there will be a bit of a groove but it should seal the dirt out OK.
Slide the hub and bearing on spindle .
This is the most important part . You want to snug (1/32 to 1/16th of a turn)then rotate hub forwards and backwards a few revolutions to set the bearing and grease . There are INCH pound torque specks if your not sure . Most bearings I done have been between 10 and 25 inch pounds . Not finished yet here comes the most important part.... back off again and loosely goes to the nearest castle nut groove to cotter pin hole in spindle . Finger tight basically.
New cotter pin installed. I cut the back one flush and wrap the other one in front of bearing adjustment nut .
Busy today .Finished this Club Car that we have set up for irrigation work then the flexes came back in to set HOC lower and install the front whillie rollers . Next week the rest of the snow gear will get cleaned up and put away . 2 more gas fleet carts and on to small engines . Approach mower went out to clean up any long grass around the greens .