Friday, April 11, 2014

Club Car wheel bearings

This process is pretty much the same for most wheel bearings .  


There are special tools to remove the dust covers but this works fine . Work your way around till its off , 


Removing the cotter pin I find a pair of side cutters works best . I'm using the hub for leverage . No need to try to straighten it out ..it will pull through . Then throw it away . Cotter pins are to be replaced new when removed . 


Pull the hub off the spindle 


If you see a rusty race than the bearing and race should both be replaced . Keep track which bearing goes with which race if they are fine . Mismatched parts will wear a little faster . Always replace the bearing and race together . Don't take the EASY route and throw a bearing in an call it a day . 


The hub felt fine before removal and wheel spun very well ... to well . It may have not lasted the season if I hadn't pulled it apart .The seal was bad letting water and debris in flushing out the grease . 


Races are easily tapped out with a punch and hammer tap lightly and work 180 degrees direction to tap them out  


Your pressing a steel race into an aluminium hub so don't over do it . Light pressure and check to see if it is seated properly 



Loading up the bearing with grease . A few pumps of grease on the palm of your hand works best for me .


Work grease in from this side of the bearing . Scrape and press the grease into the bearing and work your way around it . 


It should look like this when your done .


Do the inside one first . Be sure to install a new seal .


Press it in till level with hub . 


Rub some grease on seal lip.


Clean up the spindle and the area where the seal sits with a fine emery cloth and grease it  . Most likely there will be a bit of a groove but it should seal the dirt out OK. 



Slide the hub and bearing on spindle .



This is the most important part . You want to snug (1/32 to 1/16th of a turn)then rotate hub forwards and backwards a few revolutions to set the bearing and grease . There are INCH pound torque specks if your not sure . Most bearings I done have been between 10 and 25 inch pounds . Not finished yet here comes the most important part.... back off again and loosely goes to the nearest castle nut groove to cotter pin hole in spindle . Finger tight basically.


New cotter pin installed. I cut the back one flush and wrap the other one in front of bearing adjustment nut .



Busy today .Finished this Club Car that we have set up for irrigation work then the flexes came back in to set HOC lower and install the front whillie rollers . Next week the rest of the snow gear will get cleaned up and put away . 2 more gas fleet carts and on to small engines . Approach mower went out to clean up any long grass around the greens . 





Thursday, April 10, 2014

Of to the races

Finally Spring has sprung . I think this is one of the longest winters so far . Some of the seasonal full time are trickling in . First job is to get the breathable tarps and ice shields off the greens . Greens look pretty good and should bounce back OK with + temperatures .





Winters over but the salter and plow will wait till after Easter to get cleaned and serviced before putting storage 


I serviced the blower we use around the club house today . Gas treatment put in and run . axles were starting to rust to shafts . Removing the wheels and cleaning them up then used never seize on them . 


Belts check for wear and adjustment


Also cleaned up the gear box and lubed as needed .Now it's ready for next year when we need it .





After Superintendent checked the greens with our prism it was time to get our Toro Flex 2100 set up for the first cut . These mowers have been out of service since November . I ran them with gas treatment and drained the tanks . After fueling them up the new Subaru engines started right up first pull .When you do regular service and put machines to bed properly this is the kind of results you can expect.


Just knocking a little fluff of the top . It will take a little while for them to acclimatize.

This has to be the best part of the job seeing your equipment back out and check your work . 

Monday, April 7, 2014

Upgrading the push mower trailer

Made this trailer quit a few years back . It's holding up well .The only problem is that the mowers tend to bounce around to much and roll back and forth burning the grass catchers on occasion . 
We are going back to running cheap light weight mowers with NO bells and whistles . In the past it worked great . Get 2 or 3 seasons out of them and throw them away or sell them to staff . The mowers are used to hand mow Tee surrounds . One of the worst jobs on this course . 

Going to build a fuel tank holder for it instead of the basket . The basket use to hold rop ratchets bungee cords etc . 


 The front mower is going as far forward as possible .


I decided on using 1/2 solid rod stock and 1/4" x 1.5 "flat stock for wheel ramps and holders . This way when they drive them on it will go up a little ramp and lock in place . 


Nothing to fancy for mounting to framing . I'm going with 2 nuts on each end tacked together and welded to frame .



Figuring out how I'm going to attach a handle to flip the rams up into wheel locks . 




Had some old solid round stock that I drill out to slide over rods and tac welded them in place where needed . 


Now was the time to figure out an easy way to lock handle in place that the staff will use . 


Went with this but wound up changing it a little . Same idea I'm using a heavy duty spring compressed between metal tabs  


All the staff have to do is turn the tab . The spring tension will keep it where you put it . No bungees or rope ratchets . The boss and I are getting tired of picking them  up off the course . Lol 



The rear mower will have to be close enough to the front mower to not burn the grass catcher . I know why not just take the grass catchers off ? Tried that but if your not watching the staff 24 - 7 their going to find the easiest way to do something . So instead of banging my head against the wall you might as well go with the flow and figure out something that works for everyone if possible . 


The trailer tilts back a little the piece of angle iron behind front wheel is just to hold the mower in place .


Rear mower gets 2 sets of wheel locks 



The handles just go toward each other onto the stopper and hinge clasp . 


Wound up going with this design for the latch  for all three handles .


This spring loaded latch holds well . 


The tailgate was a little short . I found it hard to load the mowers on . Upgraded the latch system to this  set up . The bar goes through the frame to the other side .

 
Made latches to weld on to the shaft . I welded it in place along with a handle .




Extended tailgate with left over angle iron  and a couple of 2 x 4 .


New handle has a stop so it doesn't lay on the ground . Makes it easier to latch the tailgate .



After I'm done I try it out to see what its like . Found a design flaw . The tail gate handle a latch was in the way of the last flip up wheel lock . Cutting it off shorter and reworking the latch solved the problem


All painted up and ready to go .


Turned out great .


One thing you figure out really quickly is that if it's not easy the staff will not use it causing damage to machinery . The tail gate is going to get extended a bit .The spacing between side and wheel will also be filled in to stopp side to side sliding . Spring is finally here and the guys will back back very soon . The only good thing about a late spring is that I had a chance to make some improvements on previous modifications . The returning staff will totally enjoy them .

Next up will be getting the blower put to bed . check the plow and put it on a pallet and keep it handy till after Easter . Salter is the same clean and grease and keep it handy . As the guys remove tarps .I'll be setting up the cold storage barn up for the mowing season ...setting up mowers on trailer and getting them started . Can't wait to get into the summer routine . It's been a long winter .