Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Cat walk build for Toro Pro Pass 200

Nice little addition . This cat walk was easy to build and will save the rear fenders from getting bent and guys hanging of the side trying to clear/clean or check hopper . 


material used 1.5"x2.5" - 1/8" tube stock cut  3 lengths at 20".Slide them in position and mark holes for pins after you get it set up in the next step . 

   
I'm using 1.5 " -1/8" angle for rails 2 x 56" . Mark just the inside one so you can flip it over to weld . Outside piece weld in place over hanging tube stock . Line up cat walk so it is just inside fender . Mark the holes for pins now .  



Clamp and ready to tack weld . 


Made a simple step with stock left over. 


Disconnect battery before welding !





After tack weld ,remove and weld up joints . Step was around 8" riser .




 Remove and flip over to measure for mesh top .


Went with 1/2" mesh to let the sand go through and better foot traction .


Already 


Test fit for the last time . Goes on easily.






Cleaning it up for 


Primer and



Paint.


And done .

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Toro HDX D Workman Dump box Mod .

http://magazine.golfcourseindustry.com/article/december-2015-/travels-terry.aspx



Well my long term memory works well but I couldn't tell where I just set my coffee though lol.  A while back I seen this build on one of the tech sites .  Had a hunch that it was Chad Braun from Prestwick golf club . With all the social media sites out there you get to know other techs fairly well . Sent Chad mail through twitter and was right in the hunch, I didn't realize it was back in 2009 . 
  The problem where having are loads going between dump bed and ROP. Gravel or surge is the worst . The over spillage winds up on the hydraulic lines that lay in a tray under the dump bed . Many times gravel gets wedged in between lines . 

The dump beds had some rigorous use this fall . That's what their built to do and they do it well . I'll have to build the modification on the box .




Removing this shield makes the job easy .



Using a piece of 1.5" angle 1/8 th thick . Cut one side of angle to hug the inside of box . I left 12 " for the side pieces . 


Clamp this first piece down . 


When welding on equipment disconnect the battery cables . Some modern equipment have delicate electronics that could get shorted out costing $$$,


Next I welded up 8 ..11" 1" angle together to make 4 upright pieces . Tack them in place in the same area as the box post holders ( for ecstatics )and then add the top rail .


The box extender can be pulled off later to weld secure .


A few more pics at different angles



You can mock up the side rail with the measuring tape to get an idea of the length needed . Mine where 20"    Notch out and bend


tack these in place 


Looking good fairly easy project so far 






Off the Workman now and cutting diamond plate 1/8 " to fit openings 






All ready for 


Priming 



and paint.





and done . 


Drill out for 4 bolts in the front and one on each side . Looks great


I'm thinking the the addition will help keep the front of the box from getting bent up . 



Going to add this heavy rubber matt to keep debris out . 


The wire tailgate latches didn't last and when it lets go it will take out the tail lights . Both of them on one machine . Chain will take the abuse that these machines can handle .

Thanks again Chad . Great idea and build . 

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

Toro MH 400 belt replacement


Our new material handler developed a tear . I did a temporary stitch job to make it last till a new belt came . Surprisingly it lasted a few weeks getting the remaining fall work and new tee decks near completion . Great machine and saved the crew loads of man hours .
Yes it is a big job to change since the belt comes as one complete piece . 
They can be taken somewhere to get a joint installed saving on disassembling the machine .    


One of the guys cleaned it all up for me . 


Originally I was going to lift it out as per instruction using the shop over head beam . 
After much thinking and planning I decided to go a different route . Same route the guys at Veseys used a few years back . 






Disassemble all the hardware in rear of hopper . I also flipped the tailgate up .




Front adjusters ...bearing case slides in grooves .


Hydraulic driven chain . Pump can just stay on .







These bearing collars lock bearing to shaft . They actually turn on bearing and set screw holds it in place .


Chain tensioner removed .


Lots of torque here .The idler gear is actually pushed down and held in place with an Allan head set screw . You will need to heat it up to get it to turn . ( left in picture )


Remove the driven gear . This machine is new an older model will need a puller .


Removed the collar on bearings and slide them off the drive roller shaft . The drive rollers are pretty heavy . ON REASSEMBLY THE LEFT SIDE (direction of travel )THE BOLTS NEED TO BE INSTALLED BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE DRIVE ROLLER. If you forget ...it will have to come back out to install them . 


Because I am sliding the roller tray out the back the rear roller and brackets had to be removed .The large nut on the left was removed ..the one on the right I moved over to pinch the centre one in place . That way I'm not changing the factory setting . 



Front was the same removed adjusters trying to keep the original setting on both sides . The front is awkward to work from but managed to loosen everything off .



Bearing housing are grooved and slide in the track ..at the point where it drops out  I slid the shaft off one end to slide the bearing out the rest of the way . Reinstalling the the bracket made for a good resting area for the end of the shaft so you can get the other side apart. This roller is also very heavy . 


The fenders make good shelves for parts . 


I like to install things back the same way so marking one end of shaft with an R or L for reference . 


Remove all the rubber shields and plates on side and front . The extra room will be needed for the belt to fold up on top . 



Front panel . On reassembly you will need to re silicon to help keep sand / material out .  


A good thing about a scissor lift is that they are mobile . I get a chuckle now because originally I didn't know what I was going to use it for . Use it everyday . Sliding it over I could raise it and push it in under the rear section to pick up the end of the roller tray . 


24 bolts later and it's ready to drag out . 


Both my magnetic trays are loaded up with nuts and bolts . 


the roller just pop out easily . Wrapping a strap around the frame I was able to grab a hold and walk backwards on the scissor lift . Actually drug back easily .  



and out . 



 The roll top from Lawsons came in pretty handy to hold tools . 


 Remove the remaining rollers . No tools just lift up and out . 


Directional arrow faces rear of machine . 


Flip the roller tray on end .




I was just able to muscle the belt over the frame and flip back down onto scissor lift . Scissor lift was on the floor for belt install . Slide the rollers back in under the belt 


Lining everything up .


Right side panel floats and I was able to put a piece of re-bar in to spread the opening a couple inches wider .  


Pushed it in as far I could almost half way .Using straps I was able to get it the rest of the way fairly easy . 




Lining up the holes for bolts to go back in . Going to the back end first I dropped the scissor lift and placed a 6x6 under the roller tray frame .This way I'm able to raise and lower one end to get it started . An alignment tool to push in a bolt hole help greatly . 


Loosely tighten 2 bolts and moved to the front . To raise the front I move the strap to the top centre .

Perfect !! the worse is over .


Getting ready to install rear drive roller .

Man power 1 about 5.5 to 6 hours into it now  , Might need a guy tomorrow to shove the bolts through and hold for the rubber shields , 


Getting ready to install the front roller .Clean everything up well . I set one bearing in place and started the adjuster to hold it in place .


Slide the roller on belt . tapping the bearing casing a bit to get the angle needed to start the shaft in the bearing .  


Leaving these plates in place gave the roller shaft a place to sit


Now I was ready to put bearing on and raise shaft up to slide in place .



Straighten the belt out before adjusting


Keep them roughly even . Later on will run the belt for final adjustments .


Greased all the bearings etc. 



Putting duct tape over the bolts made easy to installation the nuts by yourself .




End panel next.


All done ....looks great .

With good planning it wasn't as huge a job I had thought it would be .

P.S. This is a new machine and it came apart very easily . If it was 20 years old I would have replaced all 4 bearings and used the cutting torch to cut off any troublesome bolts  to speed things up .