Monday, January 26, 2015

Toro Front rotary deck roller rebuild


During the winter maintenance I knew the front roller bearings on the sidewinder were on their way out . The bearings felt dry and rolled very easily . I managed to make them last by spraying cable lube around the bearing area hoping the grease would solidify inside the bearing . Now is a good time to replace them before the bearing lets go completely . They are very hard to get them out if it happens plus the shaft ( bolt ) will be damaged .    


Started out by using a piece of 3/8 mild steel rod and driving one bearing out . 


Using the press to push the other one out by using the spacer sleeve inside roller . 


Pic of sleeve


Using a small extension and socket that match the shaft . Invert the socket like this keeps the business end from getting damaged .


The new style bearings are to be driven in with a special tool . My impact 1 1/4 socket was the perfect fit . As long as it doesn't damage the casing on the bearing and pushes evenly on the outside edge . 


New bearing number



Inner spacer shaft looks pretty bad but its mostly built up grass clippings ..came right off on the wire wheel .


Both bearing out .


I like to put grease inside cavity before installing bearings .



New bearing on the left . The're a little beefer. 



Press in the first bearing 


Lining up the inner spacer and bearing using the shaft/bolt.


I'll press in the second bearing .


Check the shaft bolt for wear.


Non grease-able bearings ..so during the season I use cable lube .Some gets in when it's liquid and gels up inside . I did get over 2000 Hrs. on the old set . 


Put some med (blue) loctite on the treads and re-install on machine .


Friday, January 23, 2015

Replacing seat rollers on our Toro 5410


One of our Toro 5410 seats started to rock back and forth quite a bit . There are four plastic roller that have worn out .
Started of by removing the seat and armrest console and let it hang upside down leaving the throttle cable etc. connected .


Next the Base ( suspension section )can come off .




Removing the rubber skirt gives you access and you can see the worn parts .



I removed the roll pin and unscrewed the seat weight adjuster also on the back rest adjuster the cap comes off the end to get at the nut for removal . The back rest adjuster linkage ,spring etc. will have to be removed .



Pics of Backrest adjuster parts .






Another pic of weight spring adjuster



The base bracket bolts have to be backed of flush inside or removed altogether .They will keep it from coming apart .



Removed the small end of shock .


Right beside the spring you can just see the worn out rollers 


To get the bracket to slide out you will need to remove the 2 bolts on both side of this bumper stop . 


Slide bracket forward into open space 

\

Then tip it up and out.


Pic of bumper stop 

The other end should come out if you move the bracket to one side to get one end out then the other . 


Brackets out ..clean up and grease .


Install new rollers 


and reassemble in reverse order . 





























Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Tru-Turf drive gear shaft repair

Our Tru - Turf roller drive gear has a lot of movement . Ordered the necessary parts for repair . Parts took months to come in . I'm glad it didn't start leaking . Laying up a roller during mid season wouldn't be a good thing . 


 Here is my home made drain extender .

Disconnected the drive coupler from engine 


Remove the shock linkage on both sides and double link chain . . 



Loosen off all 4 lines at pump 


remove bolt for pedal linkage and 4 base nuts on pump ( studs are welded in on underside).  . 


Lift up a carefully pull out making sure not to damage any steel lines ,.


Clean up in parts washer bin .


Fit pretty good in my large drain pan ...trying to avoid spilling oil everywhere. Remove both chain tensioners 


Remove drive gear bolt and and  key most likely will have to be replaced . There is a lot of torquing back and forth .  


Next I removed the 4 bolts that hold the bracket in place .


Tensioner bracket. 


To split the pump there are 2 torx head screws that have to be removed 


  Pull pump apart by hand . There is a rubber seal between the halves . There are 4 large pump balls that you want to keep in place .


 I wrapped a rag around them and covered it to keep it clean . 

 Now we are at the problem part .


New parts . After waiting many months the wrong shaft was delivered ( single gear ) ? How does this happen when you order from an OEM # I'll have to make it work ...Not having a roller in the spring is not an option . Most of it is keyed on the first section . Dealer was contacted about the problem for records . 


Remove the cir-clip holding the shaft in place 


Pushed the shaft and bearing out with the press .Could easily be tapped out with a hammer 


Remove the old seal 


New seal sits flush in bottom . Using a socket this way works great 


New seal in place .


 Pressed in the new bearing . and pushed new shaft in and installed cir-clip.


Installed gear and new key . Notice that it was a little short . 

  
Shimmed up the gap and installed a longer bolt .


Assemble both halves and re-install torx screw  to hold pump halves together . Reassemble I reverse order . Change Hydraulic filter and new fluid . 


I was amazed on how much wear took place . Old bearing wasn't seized and in good condition . seal was also in good shape .