Thursday, September 29, 2016

JD 4320 front axle pinion seal

Our tractor developed a leak under the front axle .On closer inspection found the 4WD  splash guard tube had worked its way up into the seal . I try to use my lift as much as possible . This was the perfect way to line up and or remove front axle off tractor . 


Using a 4" tie down strap and doubling it up.Moved the plate close to uprights . leaving the box scrapper on the back gave it a little counter balance too . But probably isn't necessary . 


Loosening of the front adjustment bolt . 


Capped off hydro lines to steering ram . Put a tag on one to get them back in the same location . 



Remove the 4 bolts that  the Trunnion in 

 slide guard back knock the roll pin out of the sleeve .The plastic collar above holds the tube . Maybe its worn out and pushed through taking the seal out ?

You can line the pin up with hole in oil pan to punch it through . I removed both sleeves and drive shaft . 


Moveing the lift up and down a bit and a little wiggle on the wheels and it came right out . You might want to support one end on a tie-rod mount with a jack so it doesn't roll over on you .  


Check inner sleeves and seals and replace as needed on trunnion and oil pan . 


No issues with lift holding up front end . Place jack stands in front and let it rest on them . When moving it up and down watch your clearance on engine bonnet . Mine was fine the whole time . 


Kit came with new crush sleeve seal , O ring and nylock nut . 


Hmmm a bit of a problem . Have the right size but not in a deep socket . In this case I'll cut it down and make a specialty tool instead of buying one .Chances are this will be the only time I'll use this size socket 1"5/16.


Had some thick wall tube stock to weld sections together with . 


Remove nut 


removed seal and crush sleeve and O ring 


Shop made seal installer . Grease lip of seal . install sleeve and nut . Now come the fun part I didn't plan for . Lol turning the nut turns wheels axle and pinion .Also hole in framing won't allow a socket to get in after assembly . After trial and error I ended up  calling  a friend . After talking to Blayne I got a better idea on how to tackle my problem . 


Rolling the axle to my bench I was able to strap both wheels to the upright 4x4 . Next grabbing the pipe wrench (36 I do believe) attached it to the underside of axle housing so to would catch on shelf locking everything down . Took a good effort to get 210 ft lbs on the torque wrench . I was pretty happy to hear the click and clicked it one more time . 


The cap and tube got riveted together . reassemble in reverse order . Fairly simple . Locking down the axle for pinion torque was the true challenge . 

PS . I'd like to thank the like minded individuals that work for the various color machines that give out 110% to give us ( the end user ) minimal down time and great experience in our busy fast pace environment .

Another season coming to an end, aeration is just around the corner . Course weathered very well in the extra dry summer we had .
Still a pretty busy place . 
Get out and play the fine Nova Scotia golf courses before we put them to bed 





5 comments:

  1. I have a 2005 John Deere 4320, compact I recencly bought. I have to take off the timing cover and now the oil pan? It's is a 4 wheel drive. do i have to take out the front axle also?

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  2. fixing to do the same operation, I my case I have no movement with the rocker arms, and there is a leak at he crank case pulley. so the timing cover has to come off,and I assume the front axle also?

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  3. yes i'm thinking you will have to drop axle to get oil pan off . I know on the kubota I had too for sure .It did come out easy .

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  4. I cannot seem to be able to lock the axle down and be able to apply torque to the nut. The shaft and the nut turn together any tips?

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  5. We set the whole thing on a trailer with side and strapped wheels to side angles then with a impact gun and a 1-5/8 deep well socket removed lock nut

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